How to Guide on Incubating and Hatching Turkey Eggs
If you’re thinking about raising your own turkeys, one of the most important things to understand is the incubating and hatching turkey eggs. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from setting up your incubator to caring for newly hatched turkey poults.
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Preparing for Incubation
Successfully incubating turkey eggs begins with thorough preparation. Here are the steps to ensure your incubation process is set up for the best results.
Gather Essential Equipment
Automatic Incubator
An automatic incubator simplifies the incubation process by controlling temperature, humidity, and egg turning. Look for one that has adjustable settings for species-specific considerations.
Heat Lamp
After hatching, turkey poults need a warm environment. A heat lamp will provide the necessary warmth to keep them comfortable.
Thermometer and Hygrometer
These tools are crucial for monitoring the internal temperature and humidity levels of the incubator. Maintaining the correct conditions is vital for the development of the embryos.
Egg Turner
An egg turner automatically rotates the eggs, which helps prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell and ensures even development. Most of the incubators have automatic turners, but you can certainly forego a turner altogether and turn the eggs yourself.
Chick Feed and Waterers
Once the poults hatch, they will need access to clean water and appropriate feed to grow healthy and strong.
Selecting and Handling Eggs
Select Clean, Fertile Eggs
Always use clean, fertile eggs. If you’re collecting eggs from your own turkey hens, choose eggs that are free from cracks and deformities. If purchasing, ensure they come from a reliable source.
Handling Eggs
Handle eggs with care and clean hands to avoid introducing bacteria. If eggs are dirty, gently clean them with a dry cloth. Avoid washing the eggs with water, as this can remove the protective bloom and increase the risk of infection.
Storage Before Incubation
Store eggs in a cool pantry or a similar environment at about 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit until you’re ready to start the incubation process. Make sure the eggs are not exposed to direct sunlight or extreme temperatures. Unwashed eggs should be allowed to reach room temperature before being placed in the incubator to prevent condensation.
Setting Up the Incubator
Temperature Setting
Set your incubator to the correct temperature of 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit. This is the optimum eggshell temperature for turkey eggs.
Humidity Levels
Maintain an incubator humidity level of around 55-60% during the incubation period. This helps control the moisture loss from the eggs, which is essential for the developing embryos.
Egg Placement
Place the eggs in the incubator with the broad end up. This position helps ensure that the air cell is correctly located at the top of the egg, which is important for the hatching process.
Ventilation
Proper ventilation levels are important to supply fresh air and remove carbon dioxide. Make sure your incubator has adequate ventilation to support embryo development.
The Incubation Period
The incubation period for turkey eggs is a critical phase where close attention to temperature, humidity, and egg handling can make a significant difference in hatch rates. Here’s a detailed guide to ensure a successful incubation period.
Temperature Control
Optimal Temperature
The ideal temperature for incubating turkey eggs is 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit. It is vital to keep this temperature stable to prevent early death or malformations in the embryos.
Monitoring
Use a reliable thermometer to regularly check the internal temperature of the incubator. Some incubators come with built-in digital displays for easy monitoring. If your incubator has a manual control, adjust it carefully to maintain the optimum temperature.
Humidity Levels
Humidity is another critical factor in the incubation process. Proper humidity levels help control water loss from the eggs and support healthy embryo development.
Incubation Humidity
Maintain an incubator humidity level of 55-60% during the majority of the incubation period. This level helps ensure that the eggs lose the right amount of moisture.
Hatching Humidity
Increase the humidity to 65-70% during the last three days of incubation (days 25-28). Higher humidity at this stage helps prevent the inner membrane from drying out and facilitates the hatching process.
Turning the Eggs
Egg Turner
If you have an automatic egg turner, it will rotate the eggs at regular intervals, usually every few hours. This is the easiest way to ensure consistent turning.
Manual Turning
If you’re turning the eggs manually, do it at least three times a day. Make sure to wash your hands before handling the eggs to prevent contamination. When turning manually, mark one side of each egg with a pencil to keep track of their position.
Ventilation
Ventilation Levels
Ensure that your incubator has adequate ventilation. This typically involves keeping the vent holes open to allow for air exchange. Some incubators have adjustable vents; check the manufacturer’s guidelines for optimal settings.
Air Circulation
Good air circulation inside the incubator helps maintain consistent temperature and humidity levels. If your incubator has a fan, make sure it’s working correctly.
Monitoring Development
Candling the eggs allows you to monitor the development of the embryos and identify any issues early on.
Candling Schedule
Candle the eggs around day 7 and again around day 14. This process involves using a bright light to illuminate the inside of the egg, allowing you to see the developing embryo.
Signs of Development
Look for visible blood vessels and a growing embryo. If you see a blood ring or no signs of development, the egg may not be viable and should be removed to prevent contamination.
Managing Moisture Loss
Controlling the moisture loss from the eggs is vital for healthy embryo development.
Weight Loss
Eggs should lose about 13-15% of their weight during the incubation period. Too much or too little weight loss can indicate improper humidity levels.
Air Cell
Monitor the size of the air cell by candling the eggs. The air cell should gradually increase in size as the egg loses moisture. If the air cell is too small, it may indicate high humidity; if it’s too large, humidity may be too low.
Preparing for Hatching
As the incubation period nears its end, there are specific steps to take to prepare for hatching.
Lockdown Period
On day 25, stop turning the eggs and increase the humidity to 65-70%. This period, known as lockdown, is when the eggs are left undisturbed to allow the poults to position themselves for hatching.
Hatch Window
The hatching process typically occurs within a 24-hour window around day 28. During this time, monitor the incubator closely but avoid opening it, as this can disrupt humidity levels and affect the hatching poults.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Temperature Fluctuations
Sudden drops or spikes in temperature can be detrimental to embryo development. Use a backup thermometer to double-check readings and make adjustments as needed.
Humidity Problems
Too low humidity can cause the inner membrane to dry out, while too high humidity can lead to insufficient air cell development. Regularly check and adjust humidity levels.
Early Death
Embryos may die early in the incubation process due to improper handling, contamination, or temperature fluctuations. Ensuring clean, fertile eggs and stable incubation conditions can minimize this risk.
Candling and Monitoring
Candling and monitoring your turkey eggs during the incubation period are essential practices to ensure the health and development of the embryos. These steps help you identify viable eggs, monitor their growth, and detect any problems early on. Here’s a detailed guide on how to effectively candle and monitor your turkey eggs.
What is Candling?
Candling is the process of shining a bright light through an egg to observe the developing embryo inside. This technique allows you to check for signs of fertility and monitor the growth of the embryo throughout the incubation period.
Tools Needed for Candling
Candling Light
A specialized candling light or a strong flashlight can be used. The light source should be bright enough to penetrate the eggshell but not so hot that it risks overheating the egg.
Dark Room
Perform candling in a dark room to see the details inside the egg more clearly.
When to Candle
Candling should be done at specific intervals during the incubation period to monitor development and detect any issues.
First Candling (Day 7)
This is the first check to see if the eggs are fertile and if the embryos are developing properly.
Second Candling (Day 14)
This check allows you to track the progress of the embryos and identify any that have stopped developing.
Final Candling (Day 25)
This last check before lockdown helps ensure that the embryos are in the correct position for hatching and that the air cells have developed properly.
How to Candle Eggs
- Prepare the Candling Area: Set up your candling light in a dark room. Ensure the area is clean to prevent any contamination.
- Handle Eggs Carefully: Wash your hands before handling the eggs to prevent the transfer of oils or bacteria. Gently take one egg at a time from the incubator.
- Position the Egg: Hold the egg with the broad end up, where the air cell is located. Place the light against the narrow end of the egg.
- Observe the Inside: Look for the following signs during candling:
- Day 7: You should see a network of blood vessels and a small, dark spot that is the developing embryo. If the egg is infertile, it will appear clear or show no signs of blood vessels.
- Day 14: The embryo should be larger, and the blood vessels more pronounced. You might also see movement within the egg.
- Day 25: The egg should be mostly dark, with a well-defined air cell. The embryo will occupy most of the egg, and you may see it moving or changing position.
What to Look For
Fertile Eggs
Look for a spider-like network of blood vessels and a visible embryo.
Infertile Eggs
These will appear clear with no visible blood vessels or embryo.
Dead Embryos
These may show a blood ring (a dark, circular line) or appear cloudy with no signs of movement.
Air Cell Development
The air cell should gradually increase in size as the incubation period progresses. By day 25, it should occupy about one-third of the egg’s broad end.
Removing Non-viable Eggs
Non-viable eggs should be removed from the incubator to prevent the risk of contamination and to ensure the remaining viable eggs have the best environment to develop.
Infertile Eggs
If an egg shows no signs of development by day 7, it is likely infertile and should be removed.
Dead Embryos
Eggs with blood rings or that appear to have stopped developing should also be removed.
Common Issues and Troubleshooting
Blood Ring
A blood ring is a sign of an embryo that started developing but died early. If you see a blood ring, remove the egg to prevent it from affecting the others.
Air Cell Issues
If the air cell is not growing as expected, it may indicate improper humidity levels. Adjust the humidity to ensure proper moisture loss from the eggs.
Black Stains
Black stains on the eggshell can indicate bacterial infection. Remove any affected eggs and ensure the incubator is clean.
Hatching Process
The hatching process is the final and most exciting stage of incubating turkey eggs. This period requires careful observation and minimal interference to ensure the poults emerge successfully. Here’s an in-depth guide to understanding and managing the hatching process.
Preparing for Hatch Day
As the expected hatch day approaches, typically around day 28, there are several steps to take to prepare the eggs and the incubator.
Stop Turning the Eggs
On day 25, stop turning the eggs. This is known as the “lockdown” period. Stopping the turning allows the embryos to position themselves correctly for hatching.
Increase Humidity
Raise the humidity level in the incubator to around 65-70%. Higher humidity prevents the inner membrane from drying out and assists the poults in breaking free from the eggshell.
Avoid Opening the Incubator
During the lockdown period, refrain from opening the incubator. Opening it can cause temperature and humidity fluctuations, which can negatively affect the hatching poults.
Signs of Imminent Hatching
Pipping
This is the first crack or small hole that appears in the eggshell. It’s created by the poult using its egg tooth, a small, sharp projection on the beak, to break through the shell.
Faint Pip Noises
You may hear faint chirping or tapping sounds coming from the incubator. These are the poults communicating with each other and preparing to hatch.
Movement
Through candling, you may see increased movement within the egg as the poult positions itself to break free.
The Hatching Process
The actual hatching process can take several hours and proceeds through several stages.
Internal Pip
The poult breaks through the inner membrane and starts breathing air from the air cell inside the egg. This is the first crucial step in the hatching process.
External Pip
The poult makes a small hole in the eggshell. This is the first visible sign that hatching has begun.
Zipping
After the external pip, the poult begins to “zip” around the eggshell. This involves pecking in a circular motion around the broad end of the egg, creating a line where the shell will break apart.
Hatching
Once the zipping is complete, the poult pushes the shell apart and emerges. This process can take anywhere from a few hours to a full day, so patience is key.
Assisting with Hatching
While it’s generally best to let nature take its course, there are times when a poult might need assistance.
Stuck Poult
If a poult has pipped but hasn’t made progress in 24 hours, it may be stuck. Carefully assist by gently peeling away small pieces of the shell, ensuring not to tear any membranes with visible blood vessels.
Dry Membrane
If the humidity has been too low, the inner membrane might dry out and shrink-wrap around the poult. Moisten the membrane with a damp cloth or warm water to help the poult free itself.
Common Issues During Hatching
Unsuccessful Hatch
Not all eggs will hatch successfully. This can be due to various factors such as improper incubation conditions, genetic issues, or handling errors. It’s important to review your incubation practices to identify any potential improvements.
Deformities
Occasionally, a poult may hatch with deformities. These can result from genetic factors or issues during development. In some cases, these poults may need special care or may not survive.
Late Hatchers
Some eggs may take longer to hatch than others. If the majority of poults have hatched and a few eggs remain, give them an extra day or two before concluding that they are not viable.
Monitoring Hatch Window
The hatch window typically spans about 24-48 hours. During this period, it’s crucial to:
Maintain Stable Conditions
Keep the incubator closed to maintain stable temperature and humidity levels.
Be Patient
Allow the poults time to hatch on their own. Avoid the temptation to interfere unless absolutely necessary.
Cleaning Up
After all the poults have hatched and been moved to the brooder, it’s time to clean the incubator.
Disinfecting
Thoroughly clean and disinfect the incubator to remove any bacteria or debris. This helps prevent any potential diseases in future hatches.
Inspection
Check the incubator for any damage or wear and replace any parts as needed. Proper maintenance ensures it’s ready for the next batch of eggs.
Caring for Newly Hatched Poults
Once your turkey poults have successfully hatched, the next critical phase is ensuring they are well cared for. Proper care in the first few weeks of life is essential for their growth and survival. Here’s a comprehensive guide on how to care for your newly hatched poults.
Setting Up the Brooder
A brooder is a warm, safe place where the poults can grow until they are ready to move to a larger enclosure. Here’s how to set up an ideal brooder:
Size and Space
Ensure the brooder is spacious enough for all the poults to move around comfortably. Overcrowding can lead to stress and health issues.
Heat Source
Use a heat lamp to maintain a temperature of about 95 degrees Fahrenheit for the first week. The temperature should be decreased by 5 degrees each week until the poults are fully feathered.
Bedding
Use absorbent bedding such as wood shavings or straw. Avoid slippery surfaces as they can cause leg injuries. Change the bedding regularly to maintain cleanliness.
Temperature Management
Heat Lamp Placement
Place the heat lamp at one end of the brooder to create a temperature gradient. This allows the poults to move to a warmer or cooler area as needed.
Monitoring
Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature. Observe the poults’ behavior; if they are huddling under the lamp, it’s too cold. If they are avoiding the heat source, it may be too hot.
Adjustments
Gradually raise the heat lamp or lower the wattage as the poults grow and become more resilient to temperature changes.
Feeding and Hydration
Feed
Start with a high-quality turkey starter feed that contains 28-30% protein. This feed is specially formulated to meet the nutritional needs of young poults.
Water
Ensure there is always clean, fresh water available. Use shallow waterers to prevent drowning and add marbles or small stones to the water dish if necessary to make it even shallower for the first few days.
Monitoring Intake
Observe the poults to ensure they are eating and drinking well. Sometimes, you may need to dip their beaks in water or feed to help them learn where to find it.
Health and Hygiene
Cleanliness
Keep the brooder clean by regularly changing the bedding and cleaning the feeders and waterers. A dirty brooder can lead to disease and poor health.
Health Checks
Regularly check the poults for any signs of illness such as lethargy, drooping wings, or abnormal droppings. Early detection of health issues can prevent the spread of disease.
Ventilation
Ensure the brooder is well-ventilated to prevent the buildup of ammonia from droppings, which can harm the poults’ respiratory systems.
Socialization and Behavior
Interaction
Spend time with the poults daily to help them get used to human presence. This makes handling them easier as they grow.
Behavioral Observation
Watch for normal behavior such as active movement, pecking, and chirping. Signs of distress include constant cheeping, lethargy, and reluctance to move.
Pecking Order
Poults will establish a pecking order. Ensure there is enough space and resources to prevent bullying and stress among them.
Transition to Outdoors
Feather Development
Once the poults are fully feathered, usually around 6-8 weeks of age, they can handle outdoor temperatures better.
Gradual Introduction
Gradually introduce the poults to the outdoor environment. Start with supervised time outside during warm parts of the day.
Secure Housing
Ensure the outdoor enclosure is secure from predators and has adequate shelter from the elements. Provide a safe, enclosed space where they can retreat if they feel threatened.
Common Challenges and Solutions
Pasty Butt
This is a common issue where droppings stick to the poults’ vent, blocking the passage. Clean the vent area gently with warm water and dry it thoroughly.
Leg Issues
Ensure the bedding is not slippery to prevent leg injuries. If a poult shows signs of leg problems, such as splayed legs, provide a non-slip surface and consult a vet if necessary.
Dehydration
Dehydration can occur quickly in young poults. Ensure they have constant access to clean water and monitor their intake closely.
Conclusion
Incubating and hatching turkey eggs can be a rewarding experience, especially when you see those little puffballs emerge. By maintaining the correct temperature, humidity, and handling practices, you’ll give your turkey poults the best chance of success. Whether you’re raising turkeys for holiday birds or expanding your turkey flocks, understanding the incubation process is the first step to becoming a successful turkey owner.
Happy hatching!
Feel free to contact your local feed store or hatchery managers for additional support and supplies. We also have an in depth post on How to Choose a Dairy Goat if you are looking to expand your homestead or mini farm!
